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This well-proportioned lady’s Cartier Tank epitomizes Cartier’s refinement and sophistication. The crisp and highly legible dial, classic Roman numerals, and cabochon-set winding crown are classic Cartier.

Some of its contextual aspects are less obvious, however. This Plaqué Or Tank was produced just before the 1976 rollout of the “Les Must De” collection, known for its watches with gilded silver Vermeil cases. Pre-Must models like this one were very well received because they offered quality and style at an affordable price. In addition, the solid brass core of this watch case indicates that it was sold by the then-independently run Cartier New York boutique. A more practical consequence of using brass rather than silver is that the case does not tarnish.

The case is 27mm long from lug-to-lug and 20mm wide, with its thick 18k gold layer in very good condition. Four lateral screws secure the case back. The engraved signature, model name, and serial numbers are also well preserved. The designation “G20M” refers to the case’s substantial 20-micron thick layer of gold.

The Swiss movement of this tank watch is the desirable manual winding mechanical version. It features an Incabloc anti-shock device.