SOLD

The Calatrava Reference 96 holds a unique place in Patek Philippe’s rich history as the company’s first Calatrava watch. Yet, our admiration for this 90-year-old model’s modern appeal may cause us to underestimate what else contributed to its exceptional ranking.

With this model’s release in 1932, the new owners of the brand wanted to make a bold statement while broadening the appeal of Patek Philippe. The strategy worked.

The first reason is also the one that is most taken for granted: the use of a round case for a dress watch. Circular cases, considered at the time too reminiscent of pocket watches, were mostly reserved for chronographs and other tool watches. This might explain why most dress watches of that era had non-circular cases.

The watch’s emphasis on minimalism, with its uncluttered dial and slim profile, is another distinguishing feature. Nonetheless, the perfectly flat bezel, iconic for the model, and integrated tapered lugs helped redefine what a dress watch should look like.

Another aspect that may surprise us today is the choice of a compact 32mm diameter for such an important model. Up until the 1930’s, smaller men’s watches were a means to distinguish wrist watches from their larger pocket counterparts. In addition, their smaller scale was regarded as clear evidence of micro-mechanics’ technological superiority.

The original dial with hard enamel printing, the faceted 18k baton hour markers, and Dauphine hands of this watch are in very good condition. Together, they strengthen the appeal of this watch design archetype.

The clever architecture of this watch’s hand-wound caliber 12-120 provides improved access to individual components. Manufactured in-house, it is also known for its sinuous and beautifully finished bridges. Cal. 12-120 continued to power all Ref. 96 watches for nearly four decades, from 1934 onward.