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The Universal Genève Polerouter is among the most visually compelling watch models ever created. Renowned for its highly stylized architecture, the Polerouter line was commissioned by Scandinavian Airline Systems for its pilots flying over the North Pole. Its designer, a young Gerald Genta, reinterpreted postwar aesthetics in a way that appears to have foreshadowed our current design sensibilities.

The lyre lugs of this Polerouter model are among the earliest and most elegant renditions. A sense of movement is provided by their inward curving lines echoing the flowing shapes of the lugs of the 1940s.

The textured inner index ring with raised hour indices is another strong feature, as is the cross-hair pattern of the dial. Similar to that of an optical piece, it brings the visual effect of this 50’s model into sharp focus.

Beneath the beautifully aged champagne dial beats the bumper-style automatic movement cal. 138SS with full rotor and shockproof device. The 34mm case features a threaded back. It is by Huguenin Frères, who also produced cases for the early version of the Omega Speedmaster Professional with similar lugs.